Friday, October 3, 2008

September 30 Travel to Oaxaca (pronounced Wah-har-ka)
Long journey by car. Scenery initially relatively dry, becoming greener as we crossed a high range of mountains (10,000 feet) and dropped down to a lower altitude. We are still about 5,000 feet above sea level, but the shortness of breath is not as bad.
Very nice hotel here, with pretty plant-filled courtyards and a swimming pool. Room is very comfortable, and the bathroom and bed are good quality. It was originally a monastry, and the kitchen is more thann 400 years old.
Walked to the market in the afternoon, with a view to purchasing some items. Oaxaca sells most of the handicrafts from around Mexico, and there are more Indians here than anywhere else we have seen.
Our new driver is very good and drives carefully. His English is excellent, and we are sure that he is of Indian descent.

October 1 Oaxaca
Early departure for Mont Alban. This is a Zapotec acropolis, which is a UNESCO heritage site. It dates back to 500 BC, but was not found until about 1931. The constructions were covered with earth as hills, so were found late. The original occupants had left the site between 700 AD and 950 AD (along with other sites farther afield at the same time), and the artifacts, graves, and precious stones were still intact. A very unique experience.
Home for the afternoon. Upset tummies necessitated staying close to bathroom facilities! In spite of a great amount of care and respect for only drinking bottled water, and eating sensible food, there seems to be no escaping the risk of a gastric upset.

October 2 Oaxaca

Drove to Mitla to the mythical "City of the Dead". The most amazing architecture is the group of columns standing 12 feet high, each column a single piece of very heavy rock, and no-one knows how they got there with no horses and only manpower. The rock is not from the area, but came from a distant place.
On the way back from Mitla we stopped at a carpet weaving factory, owned by one family for generations. The explanation and demonstration of the weaving of complicated designs, and the natural fibre and colours used, was very thorough. Could not resist a purchase or two!!
Travelled to El Tula, where there is a 2,000 year old sabino tree. This enormous tree has a girth of 58 metres, and stands 42 metres high. The guide said it was the largest diameter tree in the world.
Back in Oaxaca we visited the large church and the Museum, both of which were beautiful and very interesting.

Some interesting information
The "Day of the Dead" is celebrated November 1 - 2 every year. Stores sell skulls made of sweet paste, often filled with lollies. Skeletens and skulls are everywhere, and also flowers and festive foods. On the night of the 1, people go to cemetaries along with bands, take food, and sing and have a party to which the dead are invited. The party may last all night. This is a tradition which they believe keeps them in touch with the spirits of the departed, and the dead and the living meet once a year.
The red natural dye is called "cochineal", which is made from tiny insects which feed on the cactus plant leaves. These are farmed and harvested as needed. The insects are scraped from the leaves, soaked, and then dried and crushed. The resultant colour is extremely bright, and depending on what it is mixed with it can be crimson, orange, or violet. This substance was exported for a long time until artificial dyes were implemented.

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