Wednesday, October 29, 2008
Monday, October 20, 2008
Sunday October 19 Back in Havana
We are on our way home now, leaving Havana airport tomorrow morning for the long flights home. This computer is extremely slow, and we cannot publish photos. So will leave the remaining text until we are back in Australia. We have some very interesting information and observations. Cuba has been a fascinating country which in some ways reminds us of Burma. People are incredibly happy and friendly and welcoming to tourists.
Thanks to all of you who have left messages, because it is really good to hear from home when so far away.
Thanks to all of you who have left messages, because it is really good to hear from home when so far away.
Thursday October 16 Havana
Drove to Unesco site at Pinar del Rio., and went inside an underground limestone cave on foot and then in a small boat. Beautiful formations.
The old cars are quite intriguing, some so old that the make is almost unidentifiable. The number plate system is interesting, with red and blue colour being Government cars, yellow being privately owned, and a large letter T for tourist or hire car vehicles.
The old cars are quite intriguing, some so old that the make is almost unidentifiable. The number plate system is interesting, with red and blue colour being Government cars, yellow being privately owned, and a large letter T for tourist or hire car vehicles.
Thursday, October 16, 2008
Wednesday October 15 Havana
Visit to cigar factory, where we were taken on a conducted tour to view the processes. There are 600 employed in this one factory, receiving about $US60 per week. They can smoke as many as they like during the day, and are allowed to take 3 home each day for themselves (or to sell on the black market, one presumes)
Next was the Rum Museum. Had a tour of the museum and a taste of Havana Club rum, and a lesson on how to make a rum cocktail.
Vegetables are in very short supply. According to the guide this is due to the recent hurricane, but I have my doubts! All we have seen so far are tiny servings of raw cabbage, tinned beans, shaved carrots, and some diced onions.
We have been served excellent fish, crayfish, and prawns, plus good chicken. Breakfast is a bit difficult - canned fruit juice, tea, poor quality bread, and sliced cake. The vegemite is a great addition, and the jam is ok. A fried egg adds nutrition.
Next was the Rum Museum. Had a tour of the museum and a taste of Havana Club rum, and a lesson on how to make a rum cocktail.
Vegetables are in very short supply. According to the guide this is due to the recent hurricane, but I have my doubts! All we have seen so far are tiny servings of raw cabbage, tinned beans, shaved carrots, and some diced onions.
We have been served excellent fish, crayfish, and prawns, plus good chicken. Breakfast is a bit difficult - canned fruit juice, tea, poor quality bread, and sliced cake. The vegemite is a great addition, and the jam is ok. A fried egg adds nutrition.
Tuesday October 14 (more)
Visited Ernest Hemingway's bar. Also a natural products pharmacist, where a skeleton was hanging behind a glass-fronted cabinet in full view. The story is that the wife died 25 years ago, and she was hanging there to keep an eye on her flirtatious husband to ensure he stayed true!
A horse and cart drive around Old Havana was very interesting, the guide pointing out many buildings of interest. The buildings which have been renovated have been paid for by other countries as part of Cuba's UNESCO rating.
After dinner, we travelled to the La Cabana Fortress to visit the weapons museum and enjoy the cannon firing ceremony at 9.00 pm precisely in the old-fashioned way. View over Hanava was very beautiful.
A horse and cart drive around Old Havana was very interesting, the guide pointing out many buildings of interest. The buildings which have been renovated have been paid for by other countries as part of Cuba's UNESCO rating.
After dinner, we travelled to the La Cabana Fortress to visit the weapons museum and enjoy the cannon firing ceremony at 9.00 pm precisely in the old-fashioned way. View over Hanava was very beautiful.
Tuesday October 14 again
Don't trust this computer access - seems to have limited capacity, so will break up the text into blocks.
The streets are littered with broken down cars, and others still very very old but mobile (unbelievably). A common sight is one of these old cars on the side of the road with the bonnet raised and two heads deep inside and perhaps a jack underneath. There are a few new cars, but these are hire cars imported from China.
Cubans are very excited at the prospect of receiving their new train in about 2 years, which is being built for them in China.
The streets are littered with broken down cars, and others still very very old but mobile (unbelievably). A common sight is one of these old cars on the side of the road with the bonnet raised and two heads deep inside and perhaps a jack underneath. There are a few new cars, but these are hire cars imported from China.
Cubans are very excited at the prospect of receiving their new train in about 2 years, which is being built for them in China.
Tuesday October 14 Havana
Collected by our guide at 9.00 am, for a walking tour around the old town. Too many interesting buildings to describe, but the plazas and the buildings are very old and interesting. The ones which have been renovated are beautiful, but there are many more for which renovation will need to be undertaken.
The feature to date is undoubtedly the local people, who are always ready with a smile and are very proud of their country. The skin colour varies enormously because of their history, from pale honey like a suntan to extremely black. All ethnic groups mix together very well, according to the guide. We were surprised at the number who have Chinese and Russian origins, and the Russian influence is quite obvious in the form of vehicles, statues, buildings, churches, and tourists.
150,000 Americans visit Cuba each year, through Canada or Mexico (not direct). Special permits are available for students. Cuba receives about 2 million tourists each year, added to a population of about 12 million. If Obama is elected, the number of tourists is expected to increase dramatically if the US embargo is lifted.
Medicines and machinery are imported from Europe, and cars from China, Japan and Korea. Some car parts are made locally, but those for US vehicles must be made in Cuba. Barrels for Rum are made of timber imported from the US, but it must first go to Canada before being sent to Cuba.
The feature to date is undoubtedly the local people, who are always ready with a smile and are very proud of their country. The skin colour varies enormously because of their history, from pale honey like a suntan to extremely black. All ethnic groups mix together very well, according to the guide. We were surprised at the number who have Chinese and Russian origins, and the Russian influence is quite obvious in the form of vehicles, statues, buildings, churches, and tourists.
150,000 Americans visit Cuba each year, through Canada or Mexico (not direct). Special permits are available for students. Cuba receives about 2 million tourists each year, added to a population of about 12 million. If Obama is elected, the number of tourists is expected to increase dramatically if the US embargo is lifted.
Medicines and machinery are imported from Europe, and cars from China, Japan and Korea. Some car parts are made locally, but those for US vehicles must be made in Cuba. Barrels for Rum are made of timber imported from the US, but it must first go to Canada before being sent to Cuba.
Monday October 13 Carmen del Playa to Havana
Flight good, relatively short, and uneventful. At the Cuban customs was very interesting - through one by one, stern unfriendly faces, Brian's Visa did not work so he needed to buy another one prior to departing from Cancun airport, close inspection face to face. There was a locked door from the cubicle to the main airport area, which only the inspector could release after he was satisfied. Judy' door would not open, even after several attempts. Boss was called who tried again, to no avail. Eventually (after about 10 tries) she was taken to another cubicle and the process was repeated successfully. In the meantime, Brian was anxiously waiting on the other side wondering what was happening.
Taxi waiting for us, transport to our hotel. Hotel quite satisfactory, with most facilities available. Our room even includes a small TV. It is right in the centre of Old Havana, and a fantastic spot where we can walk everywhere in the old town. Good sleep.
Taxi waiting for us, transport to our hotel. Hotel quite satisfactory, with most facilities available. Our room even includes a small TV. It is right in the centre of Old Havana, and a fantastic spot where we can walk everywhere in the old town. Good sleep.
Monday, October 13, 2008
October 12 Playa del Carmen
Travelled to here by car. This is a very tropical resort, right on the beach facing aqua waters and a view of the island offshore. The daily rate is all-inclusive, so food, activities, and drinks are all covered except for the more expensive activities such as jet-skis and access to the computer. There are all kinds of activities available, including boating, paragliding, kayaking, dive boats and dive lessons, etc. The buffet meals are excellent, and the quality of the food very good and healthy.
There are speakers scattered around the tropical garden, set inside rocks placed between the plants, playing Mexican music all day.
We have had rain storms overnight, about midday, and late in the afternoon. These are accompanied by loud thunder and lighting, and extremely heavy rain as opposed to showers. Shortly afterwards, the sun reappears along with the bikinis and towels. The humidity is very high, and the air feels very steamy.
Yesterday on a jaunt into the township, we cruised the stalls and one of them had two tiny monkeys on leads which were available for photographs at a price. We have not seen monkeys so small anywhere before.
Mexico produces a great deal of sisal, some for export, and in the past it was the major source of income for Mexico. This is grown as a plant which is like a large fleshy-leafed cactus plant. It takes about 5 years to grow to maturity, after which 4 - 5 leaves are harvested each year. The leaves are crushed, and the internal fibre is then processed to form the sisal fibre with which we are familiar. It is used to produce ropes, string, bags, fabric, and even the sacks which hold the sand as banks close to the shore at our hotel.
We have seen no lamb on any menu in our travels.
All our rooms have been very good, and all have a large-screen TV. However, there is always some item missing (usually only one) such as a bathmat, flannel, drinking glasses, clock, etc.
Tomorrow we depart for Cuba - our next adventure. This will be a highlight, and we cannot wait to explore and experience an exciting part of our trip.
Still cannot publish photos, and there may be no computer access in Cuba.
There are speakers scattered around the tropical garden, set inside rocks placed between the plants, playing Mexican music all day.
We have had rain storms overnight, about midday, and late in the afternoon. These are accompanied by loud thunder and lighting, and extremely heavy rain as opposed to showers. Shortly afterwards, the sun reappears along with the bikinis and towels. The humidity is very high, and the air feels very steamy.
Yesterday on a jaunt into the township, we cruised the stalls and one of them had two tiny monkeys on leads which were available for photographs at a price. We have not seen monkeys so small anywhere before.
Mexico produces a great deal of sisal, some for export, and in the past it was the major source of income for Mexico. This is grown as a plant which is like a large fleshy-leafed cactus plant. It takes about 5 years to grow to maturity, after which 4 - 5 leaves are harvested each year. The leaves are crushed, and the internal fibre is then processed to form the sisal fibre with which we are familiar. It is used to produce ropes, string, bags, fabric, and even the sacks which hold the sand as banks close to the shore at our hotel.
We have seen no lamb on any menu in our travels.
All our rooms have been very good, and all have a large-screen TV. However, there is always some item missing (usually only one) such as a bathmat, flannel, drinking glasses, clock, etc.
Tomorrow we depart for Cuba - our next adventure. This will be a highlight, and we cannot wait to explore and experience an exciting part of our trip.
Still cannot publish photos, and there may be no computer access in Cuba.
Thursday, October 9, 2008
October 8 Merida to Cancun
Left Merida early by car, and travelled to Chichen Itza (means mouth, well, and the local Itza tribe). There we visited with a guide the temples and palace of the ancient Maya tribe. The site was only unearthed in the 1930s. It is now very, very hot, so walking around a limestone site was exceptionally so. The humidity is also in the 90s, so it is very uncomfortable for us. The visit was very impressive, and we were intrigued by the information given to us by the guide. As usual, wherever tourists visit there are aisles of vendors of local produce and artifacts - there were 560 at this site! Fortunately, they are not pushy.
We have now arrived at Cancun after a long drive, staying in a hotel which is quite grand. Our room has a view over the Caribbean, with a very long pool and open air restaurant in the foreground. Our room is very large and tastefully decorated, so we can feel spoilt for two nights. We have booked for dinner tonight in the open-air restaurant right next to the sand and overlooking the sunset.
The whole country seems to be enamoured with VWs.
There are few motorbikes, and even fewer bicycles.
Forgot to mention that in Merida, the ceiling in our room was 24 feet high, and the entry and bathroom doors were 12 feet high.
We had lunch today in Chichen Itza, with 1,000 other bus-traveller tourists. Very congested, but the buffet food was good. Ethnic dancers entertained the tourists as they queued and ate. They danced with bottles of liquid, or glasses on trays on their heads. They also performed a maypole. Very entertaining.
The mosquitoes have been having a feast - need to use the repellent now we are in the warmer weather.
Forgot to mention that at Palanque we were woken at dawn by a very loud and strange noise - later we were told that it was a small black monkey high in the trees.
The roads are very good, but a driver must be very alert for the "humps" (the Mexicans call them "sleeping policemen"). You must reduce the speed to about 3 km/hour, or risk serious damage to the vehicle. They work extremely well, and are located wherever there is any sign of civilisation (even a very small village)
We have now arrived at Cancun after a long drive, staying in a hotel which is quite grand. Our room has a view over the Caribbean, with a very long pool and open air restaurant in the foreground. Our room is very large and tastefully decorated, so we can feel spoilt for two nights. We have booked for dinner tonight in the open-air restaurant right next to the sand and overlooking the sunset.
The whole country seems to be enamoured with VWs.
There are few motorbikes, and even fewer bicycles.
Forgot to mention that in Merida, the ceiling in our room was 24 feet high, and the entry and bathroom doors were 12 feet high.
We had lunch today in Chichen Itza, with 1,000 other bus-traveller tourists. Very congested, but the buffet food was good. Ethnic dancers entertained the tourists as they queued and ate. They danced with bottles of liquid, or glasses on trays on their heads. They also performed a maypole. Very entertaining.
The mosquitoes have been having a feast - need to use the repellent now we are in the warmer weather.
Forgot to mention that at Palanque we were woken at dawn by a very loud and strange noise - later we were told that it was a small black monkey high in the trees.
The roads are very good, but a driver must be very alert for the "humps" (the Mexicans call them "sleeping policemen"). You must reduce the speed to about 3 km/hour, or risk serious damage to the vehicle. They work extremely well, and are located wherever there is any sign of civilisation (even a very small village)
Wednesday, October 8, 2008
October 7 Merida
Free day today. Took a taxi into town to the market and square, visited the Cathedral, and generally just wandered around in the heat. Not being too adventurous with street food, we bought a banana and water each for lunch. Brian is still adopting the security of carrying a toilet roll in his back pocket each day in case of emergency.
Back at our lovely little hotel now and feeling a little cooler. Tomorrow we depart very early for a full day´s busride.
This computer will not allow Brian to publish any of his photos. Perhaps at the next overnight stop.
We really appreciate the comments you have been leaving for us. Makes us feel in contact with Australia.
Back at our lovely little hotel now and feeling a little cooler. Tomorrow we depart very early for a full day´s busride.
This computer will not allow Brian to publish any of his photos. Perhaps at the next overnight stop.
We really appreciate the comments you have been leaving for us. Makes us feel in contact with Australia.
October 6 Palenque to Merida
Visited a very important site of ruins from the Mayan era, which had been buried for centuries before discovery in the 1950´s. Some of the temples have been partially restored, which is an ongoing process. This is a beautiful site.
We then had a very long drive of about 5 hrs toVillahermosa to catch the short flight to Merida, arriving at about 9.30 pm in the evening.
It is very, very hot now, probably more than 30 degrees, and the humidity more than 90%. The heat makes one wilt, and walking around a market or other sightseeing is a very tiring experience.
Our hotel here has a very pretty courtyard filled with a small pool and flowered plants, and beyond that a modern swimming pool with lounge chairs and tables for meals. The ceilings are very high, and the entrance doors to our suite are about 20 feet high! This is a small place which accommodates only about 16 people, and we are the only guests at present. The courtyard contains many plants which we recognise - monsteria, frangipani, coconut palms, creepers, and other bright green foliage.
We have found Mexican people to be very helpful and friendly, and to date have felt very safe. Most are short, and some very short perhaps only reaching to Judy´s shoulder.
The young girls are quite plump, and the older women more so. All schoolchildren wear a uniform, with each school being different. The girls in particular look clean and fresh. We did see one young girl in uniform who was very pregnant.
We then had a very long drive of about 5 hrs toVillahermosa to catch the short flight to Merida, arriving at about 9.30 pm in the evening.
It is very, very hot now, probably more than 30 degrees, and the humidity more than 90%. The heat makes one wilt, and walking around a market or other sightseeing is a very tiring experience.
Our hotel here has a very pretty courtyard filled with a small pool and flowered plants, and beyond that a modern swimming pool with lounge chairs and tables for meals. The ceilings are very high, and the entrance doors to our suite are about 20 feet high! This is a small place which accommodates only about 16 people, and we are the only guests at present. The courtyard contains many plants which we recognise - monsteria, frangipani, coconut palms, creepers, and other bright green foliage.
We have found Mexican people to be very helpful and friendly, and to date have felt very safe. Most are short, and some very short perhaps only reaching to Judy´s shoulder.
The young girls are quite plump, and the older women more so. All schoolchildren wear a uniform, with each school being different. The girls in particular look clean and fresh. We did see one young girl in uniform who was very pregnant.
Tuesday, October 7, 2008
October 6 Palenque
Tried to put some photos on but they will not accept them at this Hotel.
Went to the ruins at Palenque today and they were really something to see. More later.
We are about to leave to catch the plane to Merida and will try to send more information from there.
Melissa, let Mardi know that the trip is really going well. The guides and the drivers are first class. The driver is very safe and the guides are very knowledgeable.
More soon
Went to the ruins at Palenque today and they were really something to see. More later.
We are about to leave to catch the plane to Merida and will try to send more information from there.
Melissa, let Mardi know that the trip is really going well. The guides and the drivers are first class. The driver is very safe and the guides are very knowledgeable.
More soon
Monday, October 6, 2008
October 5 San Cristobal to Palenque
Today we travelled a long way in our bus, through very green and mountainous countryside. Most of the trip was very slow, particularly with the high road humps across the road in every small village or settlement. Travelled about 220 km in 5.5 hours.
On the way we stopped at a very beautiful waterfall with blue water cascading some hundreds of feet in different separate falls. Three separate small rivers meet at this point, and with the recent rain the flow was very strong. We have not seen such a beautiful waterfall anywhere. Had lunch there, partaking of a delicious grilled fish caught in the river and cooked to perfection.
We have now reached Palenque and tomorrow we visit and explore the old Mayo ruins.
We may not have access to a computer for two days, but will try.
It is really good to receive comments from those of you who have responded to our entries.
On the way we stopped at a very beautiful waterfall with blue water cascading some hundreds of feet in different separate falls. Three separate small rivers meet at this point, and with the recent rain the flow was very strong. We have not seen such a beautiful waterfall anywhere. Had lunch there, partaking of a delicious grilled fish caught in the river and cooked to perfection.
We have now reached Palenque and tomorrow we visit and explore the old Mayo ruins.
We may not have access to a computer for two days, but will try.
It is really good to receive comments from those of you who have responded to our entries.
October 4 San Cristobal
Our guide and driver took us in our Mercedes mini-bus to an indigenous village called San Juan Chamula. The local people run their own community, and decide on their own laws. Women wear heavy woven woollen black skirts, brushed so they appear like mohair. We saw two men locked behind a galvanised iron gate where all the public could see. This is sufficient indignity and humiliation to act as an appropriate punishment.
Here we entered the local church which was originally built by the Catholics, and has statues around the walls in glass cases. There the signs of the Western religion ends.
The floor was covered with pine needles, and there were about 100 people inside in groups of about 5 or 6. Each group had lit up to 200 - 300 candles on the floor, and were kneeling on the floor chanting with a "healer". The healer had a live chicken (read "chook"), which was waved over the patient and then over the candles, taking the evil spirits away from the sick person. On completion of this ritual, the healer then stretched the neck of the chook until it died peacefully. The patient then looked somewhat relieved, although only time will tell if the "treatment" was successful. A group of people were slowly walking around inside, bearing burning incense in a torch and chanting, so the whole building was full of smoke. We have never felt an atmosphere so intense, and we were very surprised that we were able to enter and move freely amongst the groups. We will remember this very special experience for a very long time.
Then drove to Zinacantan and visited a family of 5 women who run a commercial operation to produce and sell local costumes and other textiles. One of the women gave us a demonstration of making non-fried tortillas, which we then were able to fill with the delicious dishes they had prepared for us (chillies, different types of home-made sausages, black beans and bacon, cheese, powdered pumpkin seeds, sour cream, avocado, etc). The local village clothing for women was blue woven woollen skirts, and elaborately hand-decorated blouses which were outstanding in their colours and very beautiful.
Here we entered the local church which was originally built by the Catholics, and has statues around the walls in glass cases. There the signs of the Western religion ends.
The floor was covered with pine needles, and there were about 100 people inside in groups of about 5 or 6. Each group had lit up to 200 - 300 candles on the floor, and were kneeling on the floor chanting with a "healer". The healer had a live chicken (read "chook"), which was waved over the patient and then over the candles, taking the evil spirits away from the sick person. On completion of this ritual, the healer then stretched the neck of the chook until it died peacefully. The patient then looked somewhat relieved, although only time will tell if the "treatment" was successful. A group of people were slowly walking around inside, bearing burning incense in a torch and chanting, so the whole building was full of smoke. We have never felt an atmosphere so intense, and we were very surprised that we were able to enter and move freely amongst the groups. We will remember this very special experience for a very long time.
Then drove to Zinacantan and visited a family of 5 women who run a commercial operation to produce and sell local costumes and other textiles. One of the women gave us a demonstration of making non-fried tortillas, which we then were able to fill with the delicious dishes they had prepared for us (chillies, different types of home-made sausages, black beans and bacon, cheese, powdered pumpkin seeds, sour cream, avocado, etc). The local village clothing for women was blue woven woollen skirts, and elaborately hand-decorated blouses which were outstanding in their colours and very beautiful.
October 3 Oaxaca to Tuxtla and San Cristobal
I can't believe that we lost a great deal of text which covered two very interesting days! It is never the same when produced for the second time, but we will try.
Left Oaxaca to fly to Mexico city (1 hour and 10 mins) which was a very early start at 5.00 am, then a reverse flight back to Tuxtla (1 hour and 25 mins). Guide and driver collected us and took us to the Sumidero Canyon for a boat ride along the river which is dammed behind a very large HEP plant. The canyon is edged with very high vertical rock walls, rising up to 1,000 metres in places. We saw plenty of very green vegetation, a monkey in a tree by the river, a very large crocodile on the bank, large flocks of vultures living beside the river, and many white water birds like cranes.
We then continued to our next stay at San Cristobal de la Casas.
We are not to refer to the original population as "Indians", but "Indigents", according to our guide.
Street dogs appear reasonably healthy, and are exceptionally good "street cleaners".
We could not find the switch to turn off one of the wall lights in our room, so eventually called for help from reception. It was easy to find once you knew where - behind a very large mirror in a frame on the wall!!
Had dinner at a good restaurant recommended by our guide - ate capsicum stuffed with a delicious filling served with rice. Mexican and Chilian red wine are quite good and not too expensive.
Left Oaxaca to fly to Mexico city (1 hour and 10 mins) which was a very early start at 5.00 am, then a reverse flight back to Tuxtla (1 hour and 25 mins). Guide and driver collected us and took us to the Sumidero Canyon for a boat ride along the river which is dammed behind a very large HEP plant. The canyon is edged with very high vertical rock walls, rising up to 1,000 metres in places. We saw plenty of very green vegetation, a monkey in a tree by the river, a very large crocodile on the bank, large flocks of vultures living beside the river, and many white water birds like cranes.
We then continued to our next stay at San Cristobal de la Casas.
We are not to refer to the original population as "Indians", but "Indigents", according to our guide.
Street dogs appear reasonably healthy, and are exceptionally good "street cleaners".
We could not find the switch to turn off one of the wall lights in our room, so eventually called for help from reception. It was easy to find once you knew where - behind a very large mirror in a frame on the wall!!
Had dinner at a good restaurant recommended by our guide - ate capsicum stuffed with a delicious filling served with rice. Mexican and Chilian red wine are quite good and not too expensive.
Sunday, October 5, 2008
Computer malfunctions don't make one happy!
Have just spent more than an hour creating text to tell about the last two days, and it has become corrupted. Bummer! Not happy. Will try again later.
Mitla.
Relaxing in front of a cactus fence. The cactus is a very important part of their diet as well as its use for many other creations.Markets everywhere.
The fruit and vegetables are stacked vertically, and they sell by number not by weight.Having fun at the Markets.
They certainly use every part of their small stalls to cram as much as possible into the space available.
Local Church in village just outside San Cristobal.
The experience we encountered inside this church was something we have never seen before and will probably never see again. No photos allowed, Judy will explain all in the text.The Canyon near Tuxtla
It is not possible to photograph the height of the walls of this incredible canyon. The height here is over 1000 Metres. This trip up the river by very fast boat was amazing.
Friday, October 3, 2008
September 30 Travel to Oaxaca (pronounced Wah-har-ka)
Long journey by car. Scenery initially relatively dry, becoming greener as we crossed a high range of mountains (10,000 feet) and dropped down to a lower altitude. We are still about 5,000 feet above sea level, but the shortness of breath is not as bad.
Very nice hotel here, with pretty plant-filled courtyards and a swimming pool. Room is very comfortable, and the bathroom and bed are good quality. It was originally a monastry, and the kitchen is more thann 400 years old.
Walked to the market in the afternoon, with a view to purchasing some items. Oaxaca sells most of the handicrafts from around Mexico, and there are more Indians here than anywhere else we have seen.
Our new driver is very good and drives carefully. His English is excellent, and we are sure that he is of Indian descent.
October 1 Oaxaca
Early departure for Mont Alban. This is a Zapotec acropolis, which is a UNESCO heritage site. It dates back to 500 BC, but was not found until about 1931. The constructions were covered with earth as hills, so were found late. The original occupants had left the site between 700 AD and 950 AD (along with other sites farther afield at the same time), and the artifacts, graves, and precious stones were still intact. A very unique experience.
Home for the afternoon. Upset tummies necessitated staying close to bathroom facilities! In spite of a great amount of care and respect for only drinking bottled water, and eating sensible food, there seems to be no escaping the risk of a gastric upset.
October 2 Oaxaca
Drove to Mitla to the mythical "City of the Dead". The most amazing architecture is the group of columns standing 12 feet high, each column a single piece of very heavy rock, and no-one knows how they got there with no horses and only manpower. The rock is not from the area, but came from a distant place.
On the way back from Mitla we stopped at a carpet weaving factory, owned by one family for generations. The explanation and demonstration of the weaving of complicated designs, and the natural fibre and colours used, was very thorough. Could not resist a purchase or two!!
Travelled to El Tula, where there is a 2,000 year old sabino tree. This enormous tree has a girth of 58 metres, and stands 42 metres high. The guide said it was the largest diameter tree in the world.
Back in Oaxaca we visited the large church and the Museum, both of which were beautiful and very interesting.
Some interesting information
The "Day of the Dead" is celebrated November 1 - 2 every year. Stores sell skulls made of sweet paste, often filled with lollies. Skeletens and skulls are everywhere, and also flowers and festive foods. On the night of the 1, people go to cemetaries along with bands, take food, and sing and have a party to which the dead are invited. The party may last all night. This is a tradition which they believe keeps them in touch with the spirits of the departed, and the dead and the living meet once a year.
The red natural dye is called "cochineal", which is made from tiny insects which feed on the cactus plant leaves. These are farmed and harvested as needed. The insects are scraped from the leaves, soaked, and then dried and crushed. The resultant colour is extremely bright, and depending on what it is mixed with it can be crimson, orange, or violet. This substance was exported for a long time until artificial dyes were implemented.
Long journey by car. Scenery initially relatively dry, becoming greener as we crossed a high range of mountains (10,000 feet) and dropped down to a lower altitude. We are still about 5,000 feet above sea level, but the shortness of breath is not as bad.
Very nice hotel here, with pretty plant-filled courtyards and a swimming pool. Room is very comfortable, and the bathroom and bed are good quality. It was originally a monastry, and the kitchen is more thann 400 years old.
Walked to the market in the afternoon, with a view to purchasing some items. Oaxaca sells most of the handicrafts from around Mexico, and there are more Indians here than anywhere else we have seen.
Our new driver is very good and drives carefully. His English is excellent, and we are sure that he is of Indian descent.
October 1 Oaxaca
Early departure for Mont Alban. This is a Zapotec acropolis, which is a UNESCO heritage site. It dates back to 500 BC, but was not found until about 1931. The constructions were covered with earth as hills, so were found late. The original occupants had left the site between 700 AD and 950 AD (along with other sites farther afield at the same time), and the artifacts, graves, and precious stones were still intact. A very unique experience.
Home for the afternoon. Upset tummies necessitated staying close to bathroom facilities! In spite of a great amount of care and respect for only drinking bottled water, and eating sensible food, there seems to be no escaping the risk of a gastric upset.
October 2 Oaxaca
Drove to Mitla to the mythical "City of the Dead". The most amazing architecture is the group of columns standing 12 feet high, each column a single piece of very heavy rock, and no-one knows how they got there with no horses and only manpower. The rock is not from the area, but came from a distant place.
On the way back from Mitla we stopped at a carpet weaving factory, owned by one family for generations. The explanation and demonstration of the weaving of complicated designs, and the natural fibre and colours used, was very thorough. Could not resist a purchase or two!!
Travelled to El Tula, where there is a 2,000 year old sabino tree. This enormous tree has a girth of 58 metres, and stands 42 metres high. The guide said it was the largest diameter tree in the world.
Back in Oaxaca we visited the large church and the Museum, both of which were beautiful and very interesting.
Some interesting information
The "Day of the Dead" is celebrated November 1 - 2 every year. Stores sell skulls made of sweet paste, often filled with lollies. Skeletens and skulls are everywhere, and also flowers and festive foods. On the night of the 1, people go to cemetaries along with bands, take food, and sing and have a party to which the dead are invited. The party may last all night. This is a tradition which they believe keeps them in touch with the spirits of the departed, and the dead and the living meet once a year.
The red natural dye is called "cochineal", which is made from tiny insects which feed on the cactus plant leaves. These are farmed and harvested as needed. The insects are scraped from the leaves, soaked, and then dried and crushed. The resultant colour is extremely bright, and depending on what it is mixed with it can be crimson, orange, or violet. This substance was exported for a long time until artificial dyes were implemented.
Tuesday, September 30, 2008
Sepember 27 Taxco
Arrived late in the afternoon. This is the city of silver, built on the side of a mountain. Our room had a wonderful view over the city, particularly as the lights began to twinkle when the sun went down. Visited several jewellery outlets selling silver ornaments, statues, and of course jewellery. Succumbed and purchased one ring. The city only really has one other feature of interest, being the cathedral which of course we visited.
September 28 Taxco to Puebla
Long drive through beautiful countryside. The fields are so green, and the country quite open. The altitude is still affecting us - the guide said we had been as high as 12,000 feet and Puebla is still 10,000 feet. We will reach lower altitudes in the next few days. Dinner at a restaurant near the hotel, where we had very good steak with prickly pear, rice, mashed avocado, brown bean mash, and vegetables. No chilli!
September 29 Puebla
Visited the cathedral and a church, where we saw some exquisite gold statues and ornaments, with one chapel being completely gold from floor to ceiling and even the ceiling itself. A street near a market had many artist outlets operating from small doorways, but most of the artwork did not appeal to Western taste.
Lunch was partaken in an old Colonial hotel, where we had our first taste of Mole (pronounced molay) with chicken. This is a traditional paste, made of bitter chocolate and about 20 other ingredients including spices and chicken consome, which looks like a dark gravy. It was surprisingly enjoyable and not too hot. Pueblo is supposed to have the best mole in Mexico, and if possible we will try to bring some home.
Spent several hours wandering through the Museum and learnt about the history of Mexico through artifacts and relics. The majority of the signage was also in English, so it was very interesting indeed.
A very dilapidated vehicle drove down a narrow street, an old lady jumped out, and took a basket of bread rolls and other pastries from the back for a store nearby. The vehicle continued down the street with the tailgate open, where this exercise was repeated with traffic behind tooting impatiently. Interesting to watch!
Observations of Interest so far
The young children are particularly beautiful, with no smiles and huge black eyes. Smaller children are very quietly spoken, and extremely well-behaved. Teenagers vary greatly, but the majority of the boys are slim and the girls plump. The tummies of many girls wobble quite a lot as they walk.
Small babies are wrapped in a blanket with their heads covered, carried by their mother or in some cases the father. There do not seem to be any prams or strollers, presumably because of the uneven surfaces of the roadways and footpaths.
Many of the women are quite overweight, which is most likely because of the intake of Western junk food which is readily available. Also, some of the Mexican delicacies are sweet and cooked in deep oil ie deep fried.
The hotels have signs "potable water" but we do not trust it, drinking bottled water as a precaution.
It is best to be very cautious about any sauce which is coloured either bright green or red! Try a little first.
Very few people seem to smoke, and we have been told that in Mexico city is not permitted to smoke anywhere outside or in restaurants, hotels etc. Presumably one could smoke at home?
There are many shoe-shine men, one on every corner around a plaza or square. They do an excellent job, and are kept very busy. It is pleasant to see men with very shiny polished shoes made of happy leather!
In Taxco we saw a wedding about to commence, although no bride yet. The bridesmaid was a puffball of bright red with beads and a tiara, and the flowergirl a bubble of white and pink.
According to our guide, Mexico is self-sufficient in agricultural products, and no-one goes hungry. But he also says that everyone has a job - so how come there are beggars on the streets?
Education is compulsory, and the children all wear uniforms. Teenage girls wearing long snow-white socks with light coffee-coloured knees above plus a tartan skirt were beautiful to behold. It seems that each school has a different uniform. Indians apparently do not attend school much, and this is not really policed.
Arrived late in the afternoon. This is the city of silver, built on the side of a mountain. Our room had a wonderful view over the city, particularly as the lights began to twinkle when the sun went down. Visited several jewellery outlets selling silver ornaments, statues, and of course jewellery. Succumbed and purchased one ring. The city only really has one other feature of interest, being the cathedral which of course we visited.
September 28 Taxco to Puebla
Long drive through beautiful countryside. The fields are so green, and the country quite open. The altitude is still affecting us - the guide said we had been as high as 12,000 feet and Puebla is still 10,000 feet. We will reach lower altitudes in the next few days. Dinner at a restaurant near the hotel, where we had very good steak with prickly pear, rice, mashed avocado, brown bean mash, and vegetables. No chilli!
September 29 Puebla
Visited the cathedral and a church, where we saw some exquisite gold statues and ornaments, with one chapel being completely gold from floor to ceiling and even the ceiling itself. A street near a market had many artist outlets operating from small doorways, but most of the artwork did not appeal to Western taste.
Lunch was partaken in an old Colonial hotel, where we had our first taste of Mole (pronounced molay) with chicken. This is a traditional paste, made of bitter chocolate and about 20 other ingredients including spices and chicken consome, which looks like a dark gravy. It was surprisingly enjoyable and not too hot. Pueblo is supposed to have the best mole in Mexico, and if possible we will try to bring some home.
Spent several hours wandering through the Museum and learnt about the history of Mexico through artifacts and relics. The majority of the signage was also in English, so it was very interesting indeed.
A very dilapidated vehicle drove down a narrow street, an old lady jumped out, and took a basket of bread rolls and other pastries from the back for a store nearby. The vehicle continued down the street with the tailgate open, where this exercise was repeated with traffic behind tooting impatiently. Interesting to watch!
Observations of Interest so far
The young children are particularly beautiful, with no smiles and huge black eyes. Smaller children are very quietly spoken, and extremely well-behaved. Teenagers vary greatly, but the majority of the boys are slim and the girls plump. The tummies of many girls wobble quite a lot as they walk.
Small babies are wrapped in a blanket with their heads covered, carried by their mother or in some cases the father. There do not seem to be any prams or strollers, presumably because of the uneven surfaces of the roadways and footpaths.
Many of the women are quite overweight, which is most likely because of the intake of Western junk food which is readily available. Also, some of the Mexican delicacies are sweet and cooked in deep oil ie deep fried.
The hotels have signs "potable water" but we do not trust it, drinking bottled water as a precaution.
It is best to be very cautious about any sauce which is coloured either bright green or red! Try a little first.
Very few people seem to smoke, and we have been told that in Mexico city is not permitted to smoke anywhere outside or in restaurants, hotels etc. Presumably one could smoke at home?
There are many shoe-shine men, one on every corner around a plaza or square. They do an excellent job, and are kept very busy. It is pleasant to see men with very shiny polished shoes made of happy leather!
In Taxco we saw a wedding about to commence, although no bride yet. The bridesmaid was a puffball of bright red with beads and a tiara, and the flowergirl a bubble of white and pink.
According to our guide, Mexico is self-sufficient in agricultural products, and no-one goes hungry. But he also says that everyone has a job - so how come there are beggars on the streets?
Education is compulsory, and the children all wear uniforms. Teenage girls wearing long snow-white socks with light coffee-coloured knees above plus a tartan skirt were beautiful to behold. It seems that each school has a different uniform. Indians apparently do not attend school much, and this is not really policed.
Another fountain in Puebla
When you open the door on the street and step inside, this is typical of what you come across.
These court yards make these old buildings.
There are many of these in the cities, towns and villages on our travels
Saturday, September 27, 2008
Policeman on horseback in Guanajuato
Ali Let Dennis know that there are a few vacancies over here for him !!
September 25 San Miguel De Allende
Spent the day wandering around the city, enjoying the sights and sounds, antique shops, cafes, bars and garden squares.
Still very tired, wide awake at 3.00 am and nodding off at 3.00 p.m!
Interesting observation from our guide that there is only one public train line in Mexico, with lines only carrying freight.
The countryside is quite green, with wild prickly pear, wild sunflowers, and strange low trees with very flat tops. Donkeys seem to be in every second field, and there are herds of cattle which can be seen from the car.
Have learned the name of the beautiful black stone with the high shine - it is Obsidian.
The prickly pear grows wild in the fields. It is used as fruit, and the leaves are cut up as a vegetable. Two crops are grown in a field over a year - first corn, and then wheat. Vegetables can be planted for up to four crops in a year.
The walls in our room have interesting colours - apricot curtains, one wall a very bright lime-lemon paint, and one a vivid royal blue. Sounds terrible, but somehow it works.
Had dinner at a restaurant recommended by our guide, which provided caesar salad made for us at the table, followed by diagonally thinly cut fillet steak with vegetables and a crisp roll. Delicious.
September 26 San Miguel De Allende
Travelled by car to a city 1.5 hours away, Guanajuato. This is a university city, with picture-book colours and beautiful to wander around. Under the city is a road about 2 km long, which follows the course of a river which flowed there prior to being deflected away from the city. Visited a church, many other important buildings including the university, and also an Art Gallery which houses about 100 paintings of Don Quixote by numerous artists.
Highlight of the day was the Museum of Mummies. Many years ago (but not that many) they dug up an old cemetery which contained the bodies of people who no longer had relatives to claim them. To their astonishment, the bodies had been mummified (some in only a five year period) and were perfectly preserved. These have been taken to a special museum where they can be viewed through glass - one of the most interesting sights we have ever seen. One was a very tiny baby beside what was obviously the mother who had been cut open and stitched up. Another had been stabbed in the chest. One woman had apparently been buried alive, because she had been scratching her face in an attempt to escape. Most did not look happy, and none appeared to be very old.
Considering how nervous we were about safety and security before we left home, we feel surprisingly safe here. Of course we are still being very careful.
Spent the day wandering around the city, enjoying the sights and sounds, antique shops, cafes, bars and garden squares.
Still very tired, wide awake at 3.00 am and nodding off at 3.00 p.m!
Interesting observation from our guide that there is only one public train line in Mexico, with lines only carrying freight.
The countryside is quite green, with wild prickly pear, wild sunflowers, and strange low trees with very flat tops. Donkeys seem to be in every second field, and there are herds of cattle which can be seen from the car.
Have learned the name of the beautiful black stone with the high shine - it is Obsidian.
The prickly pear grows wild in the fields. It is used as fruit, and the leaves are cut up as a vegetable. Two crops are grown in a field over a year - first corn, and then wheat. Vegetables can be planted for up to four crops in a year.
The walls in our room have interesting colours - apricot curtains, one wall a very bright lime-lemon paint, and one a vivid royal blue. Sounds terrible, but somehow it works.
Had dinner at a restaurant recommended by our guide, which provided caesar salad made for us at the table, followed by diagonally thinly cut fillet steak with vegetables and a crisp roll. Delicious.
September 26 San Miguel De Allende
Travelled by car to a city 1.5 hours away, Guanajuato. This is a university city, with picture-book colours and beautiful to wander around. Under the city is a road about 2 km long, which follows the course of a river which flowed there prior to being deflected away from the city. Visited a church, many other important buildings including the university, and also an Art Gallery which houses about 100 paintings of Don Quixote by numerous artists.
Highlight of the day was the Museum of Mummies. Many years ago (but not that many) they dug up an old cemetery which contained the bodies of people who no longer had relatives to claim them. To their astonishment, the bodies had been mummified (some in only a five year period) and were perfectly preserved. These have been taken to a special museum where they can be viewed through glass - one of the most interesting sights we have ever seen. One was a very tiny baby beside what was obviously the mother who had been cut open and stitched up. Another had been stabbed in the chest. One woman had apparently been buried alive, because she had been scratching her face in an attempt to escape. Most did not look happy, and none appeared to be very old.
Considering how nervous we were about safety and security before we left home, we feel surprisingly safe here. Of course we are still being very careful.
Friday, September 26, 2008
Wednesday September 24
Travelled to Queretaro and then San Miguel de Allende. Lovely country. Area around Mexico city for a 50km radius is a high plateau, relatively cool and pleasant.
Time difference is still giving us angst - wide awake at 2.00 am, and dozing at 3.00 pm!
Our driver is very competent, and able to drive safely whilst talking most of the time to give us a great deal of history and politics.
Some comments which made us smile - ¨lemincheque" (let me check) and "get corpse" (I will remove the cork)
The rooms and service are quite varied - some excellent, some completely absent. eg our present shower has no curtain, the basin does not drain, and the door card only works once! Waiters everywhere are amazingly friendly, but one must hold your plate down and also your knife and fork or they disappear before your eyes! Coffee is acceptable, tea ok. Food so far is not too bad, although every meal has beans in it. No trouble with chilli so far, but we must be careful to ensure we check the ingredients before ordering a meal. Garlic chilli mushrooms were the highlight so far. Mexican red wine proved to be acceptable and relatively cheap.
We are staying now at the San Miguel de Allende, where the foyer contains an amazing feature - a well about 100 feet deep, with light globes illuminating the full depth. This was the original well when the city was first operational as a centre to check the transport of silver from south to north.
Note that there is only one passenger train line in Mexico, so people travel by bus and car.
More soon
Travelled to Queretaro and then San Miguel de Allende. Lovely country. Area around Mexico city for a 50km radius is a high plateau, relatively cool and pleasant.
Time difference is still giving us angst - wide awake at 2.00 am, and dozing at 3.00 pm!
Our driver is very competent, and able to drive safely whilst talking most of the time to give us a great deal of history and politics.
Some comments which made us smile - ¨lemincheque" (let me check) and "get corpse" (I will remove the cork)
The rooms and service are quite varied - some excellent, some completely absent. eg our present shower has no curtain, the basin does not drain, and the door card only works once! Waiters everywhere are amazingly friendly, but one must hold your plate down and also your knife and fork or they disappear before your eyes! Coffee is acceptable, tea ok. Food so far is not too bad, although every meal has beans in it. No trouble with chilli so far, but we must be careful to ensure we check the ingredients before ordering a meal. Garlic chilli mushrooms were the highlight so far. Mexican red wine proved to be acceptable and relatively cheap.
We are staying now at the San Miguel de Allende, where the foyer contains an amazing feature - a well about 100 feet deep, with light globes illuminating the full depth. This was the original well when the city was first operational as a centre to check the transport of silver from south to north.
Note that there is only one passenger train line in Mexico, so people travel by bus and car.
More soon
Thursday, September 25, 2008
September 24, 2008 San Juan del Rio
After 31 hours between start and end destinations, we were exhausted and not thinking straight. The two hour queue at customs in Mexico city was the last straw for these weary travellers.
Breakfast on the first morning was intesting, with some strange foods on the buffet. One resembled green slime, and another lumps of white stuff of custard consistency resting in a brown sludge. We settled for scrambled eggs and a bread roll.
We spent yesterday driving through the countryside, and visiting the amazing pyramids at Teotihusean. The countryside was filled with wild sunflowers in bloom, peppercorn trees, and fields of maize and cattle grazing. The land was once under water, which has been drained for agriculture. In the city, most of the very old buildings have sunk, causing the buildings to give the impression of waves on the outside.
The housing on the outskirts of Mexico was very interesting - thousands of very small, two-story constructions with water and gas tanks on the rooves. According to our guide, if people save then they can apply for one of these and pay very little for a roof over their heads.
Near the pyramids, there is are working craftsmen plus an amazing display of their handcrafted work in stone with embedded decorative semi-precious colourful stones. Coveted one of these, but too heavy to contemplate bringing home.
Also given a lesson on the usefulness of a particular large cactus - named the pulque. Holds water in the base which is replenished each day by the plant, the centre produces a needle-like pointed implement with a long strand of string attached, used for sewing. Leaves produce a paper-like sheet inside, which can be used for writing notes and then dried.
Silverwork is very beautiful - not as elaborate as we had imagined. Beautiful jewellery made from silver and stones.
We are now at the Hacienda Galindo @ San Juan del Rio, a magnificent old mansion and other buildings with exquisite gardens. There are many courtyards around the main building, each of which is planted with heavily-laden orange trees, creepers, and other bright green plants silhouetted against terracotta painted high walls. The surrounding lawns and trees are very green and healthy, and obviously receiving plenty of tlc and water. It was surprising to realise how long it has been since we have seen a garden sprinkler in action!
The rooms are attractive and the beds comfortable, with more than adequate facilities. Staff are helpful and genial, but few speak English. Some remind us of Manuel of John Cleese fame - ingratiating, simple, and appearing to stare into the distance when approached.
Au revoir, more soon. Still light on for sleep, but this will no doubt improve with more time
Wednesday, August 20, 2008
ITINERARY-- MEXICO AND CUBA, SEPT/OCT 2008
This is the approximate route we are taking through Mexico and Cuba. We don't expect to stick exactly to this plan as what ever comes along is where we will go in Mexico. Should be fun.
Melbourne / Los Angeles / Mexico City / San Juan del Rio / San Miguel de Allende / Guanajuato / Cocoyoc / Puebla / Oaxaca / Tuxtla Gutierrez / Chiapa de Corzo / San Cristobal / Agua Azul / Palenque / Villahermosa / Merida / Chichen Itza / Cancun / Playa Del Carmen / Cancun / Havana / San Carlos de La Cabana / Vinales Valley / Pinar del Rio / Cienfuegos / Fernandina de Jagua / Villa de La Santisima Trinidad / Varadero / Havana / Mexico City / Los Angeles / Melbourne.
Melbourne / Los Angeles / Mexico City / San Juan del Rio / San Miguel de Allende / Guanajuato / Cocoyoc / Puebla / Oaxaca / Tuxtla Gutierrez / Chiapa de Corzo / San Cristobal / Agua Azul / Palenque / Villahermosa / Merida / Chichen Itza / Cancun / Playa Del Carmen / Cancun / Havana / San Carlos de La Cabana / Vinales Valley / Pinar del Rio / Cienfuegos / Fernandina de Jagua / Villa de La Santisima Trinidad / Varadero / Havana / Mexico City / Los Angeles / Melbourne.
Monday, April 14, 2008
These are the ruins at Teotihuacan about 45 minutes north-east of Mexico City. The large pyramid is called the "Pyramid of the Moon". This photo has been taken from the third largest pyramid in the world which is called the "Pyramid of the Sun" This will be one of our first stops after a night in Mexico City
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