September 24, 2008 San Juan del Rio

After 31 hours between start and end destinations, we were exhausted and not thinking straight. The two hour queue at customs in Mexico city was the last straw for these weary travellers.

Breakfast on the first morning was intesting, with some strange foods on the buffet. One resembled green slime, and another lumps of white stuff of custard consistency resting in a brown sludge. We settled for scrambled eggs and a bread roll.

We spent yesterday driving through the countryside, and visiting the amazing pyramids at Teotihusean. The countryside was filled with wild sunflowers in bloom, peppercorn trees, and fields of maize and cattle grazing. The land was once under water, which has been drained for agriculture. In the city, most of the very old buildings have sunk, causing the buildings to give the impression of waves on the outside.

The housing on the outskirts of Mexico was very interesting - thousands of very small, two-story constructions with water and gas tanks on the rooves. According to our guide, if people save then they can apply for one of these and pay very little for a roof over their heads.

Near the pyramids, there is are working craftsmen plus an amazing display of their handcrafted work in stone with embedded decorative semi-precious colourful stones. Coveted one of these, but too heavy to contemplate bringing home.

Also given a lesson on the usefulness of a particular large cactus - named the pulque. Holds water in the base which is replenished each day by the plant, the centre produces a needle-like pointed implement with a long strand of string attached, used for sewing. Leaves produce a paper-like sheet inside, which can be used for writing notes and then dried.

Silverwork is very beautiful - not as elaborate as we had imagined. Beautiful jewellery made from silver and stones.

We are now at the Hacienda Galindo @ San Juan del Rio, a magnificent old mansion and other buildings with exquisite gardens. There are many courtyards around the main building, each of which is planted with heavily-laden orange trees, creepers, and other bright green plants silhouetted against terracotta painted high walls. The surrounding lawns and trees are very green and healthy, and obviously receiving plenty of tlc and water. It was surprising to realise how long it has been since we have seen a garden sprinkler in action!

The rooms are attractive and the beds comfortable, with more than adequate facilities. Staff are helpful and genial, but few speak English. Some remind us of Manuel of John Cleese fame - ingratiating, simple, and appearing to stare into the distance when approached.

Au revoir, more soon. Still light on for sleep, but this will no doubt improve with more time